The Italian Escapade
Our impressions of Italy were shaped by our senses. It was a banquet that began as soon as we stepped off the plane and heard the musical cadences of the sexy and melodious language and the car radio resonating with the opera ‘La Boheme’. Our nostrils filled with the strong heady smell of Jasmine which seemed to pervade the air at all times. In the early mornings a light, fresh scent which became heavier as the sun warmed and by mid-afternoon a heavy and over-powering perfume which dulled the senses and created a feeling of sluggishness, or maybe that was the excellent white wine we had enjoyed at lunch. The food was stimulating, the taste of Italy accentuated in the olive oil, not smelling or tasting like anywhere else in the world. The sunshine, light and flavours of Italy, of olives and the outdoors, of romance and music.
We were visiting the Italian Lakes for the first time and were stunned by the immensity of Lake Como which sparkled in the sunshine and provided light and blue shadows to the enormous elevations which dwarfed it. The small villages were painted in sunshine colours, oranges, yellows and creams. They clung to every available crevice or ledge provided. Hundreds of boats in varying shapes and sizes lapped gaily at the water’s edge. The ferries and hydrofoils constantly criss-crossed the expanse transporting holidays makers and commuters from village to town and lending a sense of purpose to the otherwise leisurely pace of life.
The Hotel ‘Taverna Blue’ wasn’t blue but more traditional mustard yellow in the square shape common in many historical Italian villas. It was nestled almost on the brink of the Lake with just a wide pathway to separate it and give access to the ferry wharf of Sala Comacina. The Taverna boasted a lovely green lawn and a paved outdoor area set with tables, chairs and umbrellas and views across the Lake. This area was used for breakfast and dinner and the hotel could almost be forgiven the lack of good food in the dining room at dinner with this spectacle to subdue the diner.
The room was absolutely idyllic. It fronted onto the Lake with the bed facing outwards, towards the French windows and the wide balcony with the Lake beyond. The balcony was furnished with two sun lounges, tables and chairs, which were well utilised in the late afternoon and evening. It was where we sat with an excellent bottle of white wine in ice cooler, wine glasses and some savoury snacks. We contemplated the magnificence, life itself and planned our next meal.
Our days were filled with sunlight and long walks through the mountains and valleys surrounding the Lake. One day we walked “Sass Corbee in Val Senagra” This started in the small town of Menaggio, a ten minute drive north of Sala Comacina. The path led us through the outskirts of the old town, up the side of the hills on graduated pebbled stone steps worn smooth from centuries of use, and past ancient houses and manicured vegetable gardens. We walked along farm paths passing old mills that had long ago lost their raison d’etre, and an ancient wash house ‘Lavatoio del Lembra’ which evoked scenes of women, their sleeves rolled up, scrubbing the week’s washing and gossiping about their fellow villagers. Their hands red raw from the cold water and constant hard work but enjoying the camaraderie of the group. Another day we traversed Lake Piano “Il Lago Di Piano” which is a protected natural oasis and breeding place for many types of water birds, and mosquitoes, which weren’t mentioned in the literature. We passed through the medieval fortified village of Brioni and then followed an old train line which had been closed in 1935.
Days were defined by meal times. Long leisurely breakfasts, simple food, fresh fruit, yogurt, bread and ham and cheese and cold hard -boiled eggs all eaten with copious amounts of excellent coffee. Lunches were exciting discoveries made during the course of exploration, a trout farm on the bank of a fast flowing river which served the fresh fish with salad, chunky home-made bread and olive oil; a small pizza tavern which served generous portions of Margherita to ravenous walkers and stray lorry drivers; and a small family run restaurant hidden in the back alleys of the town of Como which produced a satisfying and tasty meal of linguini and cockles which, washed down with the house white, left us feeling ready to tackle the trip back from Como on the bus.
La Tirlindana Restaurant, is tucked away in a little Piazza on the water’s edge close to our hotel and provided the most outstanding meal one evening. This is an authentic Italian restaurant. The mother is cooking in the kitchen, the sons are serving the food and the father is overseeing everything and they were all extremely friendly and so helpful. Our entrée of gnocchi with porcini mushrooms was so fresh and light and tasty that my taste buds are still amazed. The whole meal was superb.
Another, completely different, experience was had at Locanda dell’Isola Comacina which is a restaurant on a small island a few minutes by boat from Sala Comacina. Hosted by Benvenuto Puricelli, a man wearing a tartan waistcoat and knitted pompom hat (beanie in Australia), and sporting an outstandingly outgoing and friendly personality. We took the small boat over to the Island which travels backwards and forwards during the lunch and dinner trade. The evening menu was a set meal of four generous courses starting with a huge range of beautifully prepared fresh vegetables and slabs of home cured ham. This was followed by fresh trout, then fried chicken and potatoes, dessert and coffee. The coffee, laced with a little ‘pick-me-up,’ was accompanied by Benvenuto telling the history of the island. Benvenuto has attracted many celebrities to the island which was evident by the large gallery of photographs of him accompanied by George Clooney, Brad Pitt, Jennifer Aniston and many more.
Our impressions of Italy were shaped by our senses. It was a banquet that began as soon as we stepped off the plane and heard the musical cadences of the sexy and melodious language and the car radio resonating with the opera ‘La Boheme’. Our nostrils filled with the strong heady smell of Jasmine which seemed to pervade the air at all times. In the early mornings a light, fresh scent which became heavier as the sun warmed and by mid-afternoon a heavy and over-powering perfume which dulled the senses and created a feeling of sluggishness, or maybe that was the excellent white wine we had enjoyed at lunch. The food was stimulating, the taste of Italy accentuated in the olive oil, not smelling or tasting like anywhere else in the world. The sunshine, light and flavours of Italy, of olives and the outdoors, of romance and music.
We were visiting the Italian Lakes for the first time and were stunned by the immensity of Lake Como which sparkled in the sunshine and provided light and blue shadows to the enormous elevations which dwarfed it. The small villages were painted in sunshine colours, oranges, yellows and creams. They clung to every available crevice or ledge provided. Hundreds of boats in varying shapes and sizes lapped gaily at the water’s edge. The ferries and hydrofoils constantly criss-crossed the expanse transporting holidays makers and commuters from village to town and lending a sense of purpose to the otherwise leisurely pace of life.
The Hotel ‘Taverna Blue’ wasn’t blue but more traditional mustard yellow in the square shape common in many historical Italian villas. It was nestled almost on the brink of the Lake with just a wide pathway to separate it and give access to the ferry wharf of Sala Comacina. The Taverna boasted a lovely green lawn and a paved outdoor area set with tables, chairs and umbrellas and views across the Lake. This area was used for breakfast and dinner and the hotel could almost be forgiven the lack of good food in the dining room at dinner with this spectacle to subdue the diner.
The room was absolutely idyllic. It fronted onto the Lake with the bed facing outwards, towards the French windows and the wide balcony with the Lake beyond. The balcony was furnished with two sun lounges, tables and chairs, which were well utilised in the late afternoon and evening. It was where we sat with an excellent bottle of white wine in ice cooler, wine glasses and some savoury snacks. We contemplated the magnificence, life itself and planned our next meal.
Our days were filled with sunlight and long walks through the mountains and valleys surrounding the Lake. One day we walked “Sass Corbee in Val Senagra” This started in the small town of Menaggio, a ten minute drive north of Sala Comacina. The path led us through the outskirts of the old town, up the side of the hills on graduated pebbled stone steps worn smooth from centuries of use, and past ancient houses and manicured vegetable gardens. We walked along farm paths passing old mills that had long ago lost their raison d’etre, and an ancient wash house ‘Lavatoio del Lembra’ which evoked scenes of women, their sleeves rolled up, scrubbing the week’s washing and gossiping about their fellow villagers. Their hands red raw from the cold water and constant hard work but enjoying the camaraderie of the group. Another day we traversed Lake Piano “Il Lago Di Piano” which is a protected natural oasis and breeding place for many types of water birds, and mosquitoes, which weren’t mentioned in the literature. We passed through the medieval fortified village of Brioni and then followed an old train line which had been closed in 1935.
Days were defined by meal times. Long leisurely breakfasts, simple food, fresh fruit, yogurt, bread and ham and cheese and cold hard -boiled eggs all eaten with copious amounts of excellent coffee. Lunches were exciting discoveries made during the course of exploration, a trout farm on the bank of a fast flowing river which served the fresh fish with salad, chunky home-made bread and olive oil; a small pizza tavern which served generous portions of Margherita to ravenous walkers and stray lorry drivers; and a small family run restaurant hidden in the back alleys of the town of Como which produced a satisfying and tasty meal of linguini and cockles which, washed down with the house white, left us feeling ready to tackle the trip back from Como on the bus.
La Tirlindana Restaurant, is tucked away in a little Piazza on the water’s edge close to our hotel and provided the most outstanding meal one evening. This is an authentic Italian restaurant. The mother is cooking in the kitchen, the sons are serving the food and the father is overseeing everything and they were all extremely friendly and so helpful. Our entrée of gnocchi with porcini mushrooms was so fresh and light and tasty that my taste buds are still amazed. The whole meal was superb.
Another, completely different, experience was had at Locanda dell’Isola Comacina which is a restaurant on a small island a few minutes by boat from Sala Comacina. Hosted by Benvenuto Puricelli, a man wearing a tartan waistcoat and knitted pompom hat (beanie in Australia), and sporting an outstandingly outgoing and friendly personality. We took the small boat over to the Island which travels backwards and forwards during the lunch and dinner trade. The evening menu was a set meal of four generous courses starting with a huge range of beautifully prepared fresh vegetables and slabs of home cured ham. This was followed by fresh trout, then fried chicken and potatoes, dessert and coffee. The coffee, laced with a little ‘pick-me-up,’ was accompanied by Benvenuto telling the history of the island. Benvenuto has attracted many celebrities to the island which was evident by the large gallery of photographs of him accompanied by George Clooney, Brad Pitt, Jennifer Aniston and many more.