Reminiscent of old Saigon
Dong Khoi Street is one of the oldest and busiest in Saigon, located in the centre of the city and intersecting with Le Loi Street, it has had a colourful past that originated in 1865 when the French Commander, Pierre-Paul de La Grandière, renamed Sixth Street, as it was then, to Catinat Street. It has since been romanticised by Graham Greene in his book, and the movie, “The Quiet American” which included the Hotel Continental as a feature of the street, the venue for the journalists, politicians and businessmen who were accommodated there reporting or participating in The Vietnam/American War.
Much of the colonial past of Dong Khoi Street has now been subsumed by modern tower blocks and shopping centres but there are snatches of history still to be found behind these modern facades. Located at the back of the ‘Art Arcade’ which displays a large range of Vietnamese artwork along the passageway, turn right at the end and through a short dingy corridor lined with motor scooters, the visitor climbs up a long flight of dirt-begrimed and distressed concrete stairs and is amazed to see a veranda covered with original black and white French tiles and café style tables and chairs. Behind large glass doors are a combined store, café and gallery called L’Usine. The French name derived from the building’s original function as a garment factory.
The warehouse, operating at the beginning of the last century, had fallen into disrepair and had to be completely refurbished to operate in the modern world as a very different entity. When it was finished it maintained the original impression of a warehouse environment and by displaying some of the old machinery throughout the space the visitor can visualise the women in the industrial environment of the garment factory working on their Singer sewing machines during this bygone era.
The café is furnished with simple wooden furniture and individual and large share tables; a bench in front of the wide counter is decorated with a bright assortment of iced muffins and cakes on pink and white cake stands with glass tops, and large framed black and white photographs depicting old Saigon and its people. The menu is simple, printed on brown paper, that is also used as the diners place mat, it targets those hungry shoppers who need a late breakfast or light lunch, offering such choices as 3 egg omelette with ham, spinach and mozzarella (120.000VND), smoked salmon eggs on toast with crème fraiche (130,000VND), a large range of sandwiches, salads and some hot dishes such as beef stew with carrot, onion, turnip and tagliatelle pasta (150,000VND)
Diners can then wander into the store which shows a range of merchandise from chic Vietnamese designers for both men and women to paraphernalia of household items, handmade rag dolls and other accessories.
L’Usine is difficult to find but well worth the effort to discover this little piece of history and unique retail/café environment.
L’Usine, 151/1 Dong Khoi Street, District One, Saigon
Dong Khoi Street is one of the oldest and busiest in Saigon, located in the centre of the city and intersecting with Le Loi Street, it has had a colourful past that originated in 1865 when the French Commander, Pierre-Paul de La Grandière, renamed Sixth Street, as it was then, to Catinat Street. It has since been romanticised by Graham Greene in his book, and the movie, “The Quiet American” which included the Hotel Continental as a feature of the street, the venue for the journalists, politicians and businessmen who were accommodated there reporting or participating in The Vietnam/American War.
Much of the colonial past of Dong Khoi Street has now been subsumed by modern tower blocks and shopping centres but there are snatches of history still to be found behind these modern facades. Located at the back of the ‘Art Arcade’ which displays a large range of Vietnamese artwork along the passageway, turn right at the end and through a short dingy corridor lined with motor scooters, the visitor climbs up a long flight of dirt-begrimed and distressed concrete stairs and is amazed to see a veranda covered with original black and white French tiles and café style tables and chairs. Behind large glass doors are a combined store, café and gallery called L’Usine. The French name derived from the building’s original function as a garment factory.
The warehouse, operating at the beginning of the last century, had fallen into disrepair and had to be completely refurbished to operate in the modern world as a very different entity. When it was finished it maintained the original impression of a warehouse environment and by displaying some of the old machinery throughout the space the visitor can visualise the women in the industrial environment of the garment factory working on their Singer sewing machines during this bygone era.
The café is furnished with simple wooden furniture and individual and large share tables; a bench in front of the wide counter is decorated with a bright assortment of iced muffins and cakes on pink and white cake stands with glass tops, and large framed black and white photographs depicting old Saigon and its people. The menu is simple, printed on brown paper, that is also used as the diners place mat, it targets those hungry shoppers who need a late breakfast or light lunch, offering such choices as 3 egg omelette with ham, spinach and mozzarella (120.000VND), smoked salmon eggs on toast with crème fraiche (130,000VND), a large range of sandwiches, salads and some hot dishes such as beef stew with carrot, onion, turnip and tagliatelle pasta (150,000VND)
Diners can then wander into the store which shows a range of merchandise from chic Vietnamese designers for both men and women to paraphernalia of household items, handmade rag dolls and other accessories.
L’Usine is difficult to find but well worth the effort to discover this little piece of history and unique retail/café environment.
L’Usine, 151/1 Dong Khoi Street, District One, Saigon