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Fortunately for me the French influence in Ho Chi Minh is still very evident and on a personal level I have enrolled at a local French Atelier (language school) and attend classes twice a week. It is within five minutes walking distance from our house and even has a small French restaurant opposite where you can sit in the shade of the overhanging trees on the pavement and drink iced coffee and have a 'tres simple' lunch of crepes while you watch the chickens scratching in the dirt around you.
There is a large French expatriate community resident here and they are supported culturally by the Institute of Cultural Exchange with France (IDECAF), who provide French language courses and a range of French musical, theatre and cinema. The local 'exclusive' supermarket Annam deals almost exclusively in imported French food and provides a range of cheeses, chocolate and a bakery. There is a small 'boulangerie' two doors away which produces extremely good baguettes and croissants and a full range of patisserie and I frequent it daily.
Driving through the centre of Ho Chi Minh the solid, architecturally splendid, buildings created by the French have left a legacy of graciousness amid the turmoil of the city centre. The Opera House, Post Office and Notre Dame Cathedral are all landmarks but beyond that they are utilised in a practical sense for the purpose they were built. The running of the Post Office is still based around the bureaucracy found in Europe decades ago, large and grand and imposing, both inside and out, and staffed by many minions who all have their individual role to play in the important task of receiving and despatching mail. It is a tourist's delight and well worth a visit. The diverse French architectural styles are a must for the aficionado or the tourist to admire starting with the Opera House (Neo-classical style) to the People's Committee Building (Beaux Arts style) to the hospital's main building which is composed of a unique style called 'Indochinoise' created by the French architect Ernest Hebard which combines elements of Vietnamese with French.
My favourite pastime is eating and exploring restaurants and as we are on a French theme I have made a resolution to try and visit the various French restaurants in and around the city and outlying districts - more about this as it happens. In the meantime have fun trying out this dessert recipe, a traditional French classic with a Vietnamese twist.
Banh Gan (coconut creme caramel)
Made with coconut milk, this version of a classic European dessert demonstrates the French colonial influence on Vietnamese cuisine.
Preparation Time 15 minutes
Cooking Time 50 minutes
Ingredients (serves 8)
225g (1 cup) white sugar
80ml (1/3 cup) water
- 1 x 400ml can coconut milk
- 375ml (11/2 cups) milk
- 6 eggs, lightly whisked
- 100g (1/2 cup, firmly packed) brown sugar
- 1 tsp vanilla bean paste
- Toasted shredded coconut, to serve
- Shredded lime rind, to serve
- Preheat oven to 160°C. Combine the white sugar and water in a medium saucepan over low heat. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to high and bring to the boil. Boil, without stirring, occasionally brushing down side of pan with a pastry brush dipped in water, for 3-4 minutes or until golden. Pour the caramel mixture evenly among eight 160ml (2/3-cup) capacity ovenproof ramekins. Set aside for 5 minutes or until set.
- Whisk together the coconut milk, milk, egg, brown sugar and vanilla bean paste in a large bowl until well combined. Strain through a fine sieve into a jug. Carefully pour over the caramel mixture in the ramekins.
- Place the ramekins in a large roasting pan. Pour enough boiling water into the pan to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake in oven for 35-40 minutes or until the custards are just set.
- Transfer to a baking tray and set aside for 1 hour to cool. Cover the ramekins with plastic wrap and place in the fridge for 6 hours or overnight to chill.
- To serve, run a flat-bladed knife around the inside edge of the ramekins and carefully turn onto serving plates. Sprinkle with shredded coconut and lime rind to serve.