THE WHITE WASHED VILLAGES OF THE ANDALUSIAN MOUNTAINS
We have never walked in Spain before and have chosen this hike through the Andalusian Mountains because it is February and an above average winter temperature sounds attractive and (2) the descriptions of the villages from which we begin and end our hike every day is described as allowing the hiker to get a taste of true Spanish country life. This hike promises to display the Genal Valley through the rich history of its villages, the natural beauty of the countryside and the hospitality of the local people.
Jubrique (pronounced Hoobreeckie) to Los Hoyones-El Higueron
This is a change of plan from our original timetable but it is a slightly shorter route than other days so will give me a chance to get my walking legs into action. My husband is a seasoned walker but I am just a novice so feeling a bit nervous about the walk ahead which is graded moderate. We are accommodated in a small old-fashioned apartment in Jubrique and introduced to the patrons of the bar where we will be taking our breakfast and dinner for the next two days. We will only have to carry our immediate needs for the day as our small suitcase will be transported for us each day to our next destination.
We amble up the steep cobbled road to our breakfast venue at the allotted time of 9 am, it is still only half- light with heavy clouds hanging low in the sky. The bar is packed with local men drinking coffee, they speak in a deep guttural patois which resonates around the room shattering anythoughts of a peaceful breakfast. We lack any common language but our host makes us understand that Monday is market day and the stall holders gather ritually to exchange gossip and talk business. After strong black coffee and toast and our packed lunch stored safely away in my husband’s backpack we set off with the bitingly cold wind still managing to pierce through our many layers of clothing.
Today the schedule is for a circular walk to/from Jubrique taking in the beauty of the valley. Our map and directions plot the route through the village and we climb almost vertically on narrow, cobbled roads until we reach the top. The very steep uphill climb continues as we leave the village and pass fallow vegetable gardens, many have barren olive trees and heavily laden orange trees on their perimeter.
We are now getting into our stride and warming up as we climb higher. Our extensive botanical and historical walking notes direct us to the sweet chestnut trees evident along the track and which will become a feature of the walk. They are an important cash crop for locals and are intensely cultivated throughout the region. They displaced the vines which had been the more traditional cash crop but which had fallen victim to phylloxera in the 1880’s and following this the lack of available labour to harvest the grapes during the Spanish Civil War and the resulting mass emigration.
There are a wide variety of interesting trees in this region and we are easily able to identify the cork trees because the bark has been stripped from the lower half of the tree, apparently the cork regrows but it takes from nine to twelve years. We make it back to Jubrique by mid-afternoon and I am pleased that I have made it through the first day and managed the terrain without too much labouring.
We have never walked in Spain before and have chosen this hike through the Andalusian Mountains because it is February and an above average winter temperature sounds attractive and (2) the descriptions of the villages from which we begin and end our hike every day is described as allowing the hiker to get a taste of true Spanish country life. This hike promises to display the Genal Valley through the rich history of its villages, the natural beauty of the countryside and the hospitality of the local people.
Jubrique (pronounced Hoobreeckie) to Los Hoyones-El Higueron
This is a change of plan from our original timetable but it is a slightly shorter route than other days so will give me a chance to get my walking legs into action. My husband is a seasoned walker but I am just a novice so feeling a bit nervous about the walk ahead which is graded moderate. We are accommodated in a small old-fashioned apartment in Jubrique and introduced to the patrons of the bar where we will be taking our breakfast and dinner for the next two days. We will only have to carry our immediate needs for the day as our small suitcase will be transported for us each day to our next destination.
We amble up the steep cobbled road to our breakfast venue at the allotted time of 9 am, it is still only half- light with heavy clouds hanging low in the sky. The bar is packed with local men drinking coffee, they speak in a deep guttural patois which resonates around the room shattering anythoughts of a peaceful breakfast. We lack any common language but our host makes us understand that Monday is market day and the stall holders gather ritually to exchange gossip and talk business. After strong black coffee and toast and our packed lunch stored safely away in my husband’s backpack we set off with the bitingly cold wind still managing to pierce through our many layers of clothing.
Today the schedule is for a circular walk to/from Jubrique taking in the beauty of the valley. Our map and directions plot the route through the village and we climb almost vertically on narrow, cobbled roads until we reach the top. The very steep uphill climb continues as we leave the village and pass fallow vegetable gardens, many have barren olive trees and heavily laden orange trees on their perimeter.
We are now getting into our stride and warming up as we climb higher. Our extensive botanical and historical walking notes direct us to the sweet chestnut trees evident along the track and which will become a feature of the walk. They are an important cash crop for locals and are intensely cultivated throughout the region. They displaced the vines which had been the more traditional cash crop but which had fallen victim to phylloxera in the 1880’s and following this the lack of available labour to harvest the grapes during the Spanish Civil War and the resulting mass emigration.
There are a wide variety of interesting trees in this region and we are easily able to identify the cork trees because the bark has been stripped from the lower half of the tree, apparently the cork regrows but it takes from nine to twelve years. We make it back to Jubrique by mid-afternoon and I am pleased that I have made it through the first day and managed the terrain without too much labouring.
view back towards Jurlique
Jubrique to Genalguacil
Walking from village to village today and the weather promises to be a couple of degrees warmer. Benarraba village, is visible across the valley, a contrast of stark white against the variegated greens of the forest and the soft blue haze of the mountain shadows. We have to descend steeply from the village and lacking walking poles I find a stout walking stick on which to balance, at the bottom my legs were quivering like jelly from the lactic acid rush. The faint gurgling of the Monardo River intensifies as we approach the lower depths of the valley; fortunately there is a small wooden bridge just beyond the washed-out ruins of an old stone water mill some ten foot up from the bank. Within the radius of five kilometres there are ruins of nine water mills where grain, olives and sumach were ground depending on the type of stone used. Sumach is a bush which was cut, dried, chopped and ground to use in tanneries to soften the leather.
From the valley we ascend throught thick chestnut forest, the narrow track, ankle deep in the dried autumn leaves, wound uphill until we reach the spectacular views over the Monardo Valley and back towards Jubrique.
Walking from village to village today and the weather promises to be a couple of degrees warmer. Benarraba village, is visible across the valley, a contrast of stark white against the variegated greens of the forest and the soft blue haze of the mountain shadows. We have to descend steeply from the village and lacking walking poles I find a stout walking stick on which to balance, at the bottom my legs were quivering like jelly from the lactic acid rush. The faint gurgling of the Monardo River intensifies as we approach the lower depths of the valley; fortunately there is a small wooden bridge just beyond the washed-out ruins of an old stone water mill some ten foot up from the bank. Within the radius of five kilometres there are ruins of nine water mills where grain, olives and sumach were ground depending on the type of stone used. Sumach is a bush which was cut, dried, chopped and ground to use in tanneries to soften the leather.
From the valley we ascend throught thick chestnut forest, the narrow track, ankle deep in the dried autumn leaves, wound uphill until we reach the spectacular views over the Monardo Valley and back towards Jubrique.
Our lunch destination is the small village of Genalguacil population 650 and at an altitude of 550 metres. It’s market day here today but it’s already 12.30 pm when we reach the perimeter of the village and the market is finishing up. This village is quite unique as it is the centre of a large sculpture display. The sculptures are the results of an annual sculpture master-class held here every August and we have been provided with a plan of the thirty plus sculptures to view as we wander through to our lunch venue on the far side.
Lunch is eaten late in Spain, from 1.30 pm onwards. I’m not sure how they manage to get through the morning as breakfast is very simple. It is, however, a substantial meal and we are served a tuna salad, a traditional dish of calamari and vegetable stew, then just as I am preparing for dessert a plate of calamari and chips is presented followed by a homemade crème caramel. Difficult to keep walking after that feast.
Lunch is eaten late in Spain, from 1.30 pm onwards. I’m not sure how they manage to get through the morning as breakfast is very simple. It is, however, a substantial meal and we are served a tuna salad, a traditional dish of calamari and vegetable stew, then just as I am preparing for dessert a plate of calamari and chips is presented followed by a homemade crème caramel. Difficult to keep walking after that feast.
This is such a picturesque village with everything in its place and beautiful paving throughout enhancing the artistic atmosphere already given by the placement of the diverse sculptures.